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We drove around Sri Lanka from Colombo to Kandy to Nuwara Eliya to Hikkaduwa in the back seat of his sedan, chatting occasionally and lazily while staring out at the lush hillsides, careening around the never-ending switchbacks, through tea plantations that convey a feeling of being transported to British Ceylon circa 1830.

After  2 hours, Mohammed turned around and said “let me introduce you to your African massage” Having heard this phrase before, I groaned, poor Jackie and Andrea had no idea, until the wheels hit the gravel and we proceeded to bounce and vibrate along the road, the whole van shaking ferociously, threatening to dislodge essential working parts and break apart completely.